Wall Walling

It is not difficult to wall a wall, which is why there are more and more do-it-yourselfers working on this work. In addition to basic knowledge of the different stones that are available to you, there are still the different masonry techniques, which should be known to you. In addition, it is important to observe basic rules of the walls.

Bricks to wall a wall

First of all, you must distinguish the stones used to wall a wall. Which stones you ultimately use depends heavily on the requirements of the wall, for example, as a wall closing the property, non-load-bearing and load-bearing interior walls and façade walls.

  • Porous blocks (aerated concrete)
  • Bricks
  • Bricks
  • Cement and concrete blocks

The size of the bricks

At first glance, the sizes of bricks in particular are varied and confusing. Ultimately, however, all stone sizes are standardized. Here are the most important stone sizes.

  • NF (normal size)
  • DF (thin format)
  • 2DF (double thin format)
  • 3DF (triple thin format)

Walling techniques

Of course, the stones can also be walled differently. Of course, here too, the stronger a wall becomes, the more stable it is. Explicitly with supporting walls this is an important aspect. Accordingly, various masonry techniques have become established over the centuries.

  • Brick wall stones (runners)
  • Brick wall stones (Binder)
  • Bricks 2 x runners side by side, 1 x trusses alternately, before and after that a truss line (cross dressing)
  • three times alongside (3 x runners, 2 x trusses in front, 1 x Runners behind, next row runners and binders opposite front and back), Association for multi-storey buildings / walls

wall closures and perimeter walls

But it is also important the offset from one to the next row of stones. Depending on the wall thickness and stones used, the offset may amount to a quarter, third or half stone length. Surrounding walls mesh with each other, but you need an offset that allows deep teeth, so for example, half / half or alternating three quarters or quarter offset or teeth.

step-by-step instructions for wall-mounting

  • bricks
  • mortar
  • alternatively sand, lime, cement and water
  • special bitumen as moisture barrier
  • concrete mixer
  • mortar bucket
  • alternatively mortar bucket or bucket with drill and agitator (little-required mortar)
  • ​​trowel (Pointed trowel)
  • Trowel
  • Spirit level
  • Guideline
  • Plumb bob
  • Mason's pencil
  • Thickness bar

1. Preparatory work

First of all you have to stretch your guideline. This should always be much longer than the actual wall. At the latest after the first stone row of your wall you should also attach the sinker or plumb bob.

For exterior walls, you must take into account that the walls would pull moisture out of the ground without any further measures. Therefore, you must integrate a moisture barrier between the substrate and the first stone row. Place bitumen in a mortar bed, then follow the mortar bed for the first stone row of your wall. If the interior walls are dry, you can immediately apply the mortar bed. Das 2. Wall Walls

After laying the first row of stones, you can continue working in steps. This has the advantage that you control all crucial dimensions from the beginning and the future wall on all stone levels already has high stability (the mortar attracts so immediately after application). Fu 3. Joints between the individual stones

Consider a gap of about 1 cm between the individual stones. At the wall endings you do not need this joint.

Tips & TricksIf you design your wall as a wall, you can also use an old garden hose as an aid in addition to a joint trowel. Wet the hose and pull it along the still fresh mortar joint. So you get a homogeneous joint pattern on your wall with a nice, round groove groove. However, if you want to plaster your freshly walled, you will find in the house journal, of course, the appropriate contributions. In addition to drywall and insulation techniques, you will also find articles about plastering the exterior and interior walls.

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