Gutters are always important

The gutter not only collects the water from the roof and transports it away. It protects the underlying house wall from too much wetting. Even with garden sheds, garages and carports, growing a gutter is therefore extremely useful. But not always, especially in finished products, a gutter is provided. But even on residential buildings, the gutters may need to be renewed.

Gutter materials and connection systems

There are some differences in the materials used as gutters.

Steel sheet, usually galvanized

  • Non-ferrous metals such as copper or aluminum
  • Plastic
  • Bonding gutter connectors

(for all materials)

  • soldering (for metals)
  • Plug connectors (mainly for plastic)
  • The basic work is always almost the same

Our step-by-step instructions you can apply for all gutter materials and connection systems. Bear in mind, however, that gluing, plugging or soldering requires different manual requirements. Of course, the respective tool for the individual joining techniques also differs.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gutter


  • Gutters
  • Downpipes
  • Droppipe bends
  • Lost and fixed clamps
  • Screws or nails for gutter irons
  • Screw and dowel system for downpipe clamps
  • Scaffolding or easel
  • Impact drill
  • Stone drill
  • Cordless screwdriver
  • Hammer
  • Chisel
  • Wood saw
  • Hacksaw, finely toothed
  • Chalk line
  • Spirit level
  • 1. Preparatory work

Along the eaves you must remove the bottom row of roof tiles in order to expose the longitudinal lathing. For finished products such as garages or carports, there is often no corresponding roof batten here. Then you have to mount a corresponding longitudinal bar.

2. Fastening the gutter irons

Fastening classic gutter irons

The first or last gutter irons are fastened on the outside, on the left and on the right, at the height of the roof tile. For gutters on conventionally large homes, metal gutters are usually used, which you can bend in length itself.

For the first gutter iron, lift the wood in the width of the iron from the battens. In doing so, you support it so deeply that the trough iron then closes flush with the crossbar when you place the iron in the finished groove. In the groove it is also fastened with screws or nails.

You then bend the gutter so that the gutter will later reach about one third below the bottom tile row. After you've screwed or nailed and bent the first Rinneisen, stretch the chime from here to the other end of the roof and back.

Align the top chop line with the height after the point where you bent the channel bar. When tensioning the chalk line, pay attention to the slope that the gutter will require later. On average, these are between 3 and 7 mm per meter, ie between 3 and 7 cm in the case of a roof length of ten meters.

The lower chalk line tensions it to the lowest position of the gutter bend and then feeds it back to the other end of the gutter. Now you can start assembling all the other gutter irons. The distance is between 50 and 100 cm from one to the next gutter iron.

Gutter systems for adjustment

Gutter systems for smaller buildings or for flat-mounted strips (at right angles to the ground) are screwed on at the same height. The individual channel iron elements can then be adjusted via screw slots to obtain the required slope.

3. Installing the gutter

Now place the gutter in the gutter. For the first gutter part, pay attention to the closed end piece. Depending on the system, overlap all other gutter elements following the manufacturer's instructions or connect with the plug-in system according to the instructions.

If the gutter is completely attached, lay the leaf grille in the gutter. This is important because otherwise the downpipe could clog later.

4. Fitting the downpipe

Now that you have inserted and fastened the last channel element with the downpipe drain, the downpipe follows. Use the spirit level and chalk line to mark the middle of the drain on the house wall.

Now insert the first downpipe bend (bend towards the wall) into the drain and hold the second arch (bend from the first arch down to the wall) at the distance to the mark on the wall, how far later the peg will protrude (3 up to 5 cm).

Now measure the downpipe piece that comes between the two bends. About 5 to 10 cm below the second arc, place the marker vertically from the first marker to drill the hole for the first tie.

The clamps are now set every 2 to 2.5 m. The first, the middle and the last ring are fixed, all others loose. For short walls use only clamps as first and last clamp. After the clamps are set, lay the downpipe and screw it.

Tips & TricksThe difference between loose and fixed clamps is as follows: the clamps connect the downpipe firmly to the wall. The Losschnellen also allow the downpipe to respond to large temperature differences. The downpipe may contract and expand.

The downpipe is directed either into a sewer, a seepage shaft or a collecting device.

Brazing the gutters is probably the most technically demanding joining technique when installing the gutter. Of course, we also have instructions in the house journal ready - for example, for [Soldering zinc gutters].

Share with friends

Leave your comment