Obviously, windows with wooden frames can quickly cause stains to appear on the wood when applying Window Color. The removal rarely works without trace, so a thorough protective masking is highly recommended. In case of damage luck and skill are decisive.
Heat yes, scraper no
As a general rule, Window Color develops a tenacity similar to lacquer both on lacquered, painted and natural wood surfaces. On a high quality lacquered wooden frame, it may be possible to detach the color film in one piece with a little luck. A dosed warm-up with a hair dryer can help, while mechanical aids such as scrapers are not useful as an aid.
Heat caused by the use of a blower also dissolves the paint on painted surfaces. The type and quality of the paint decides on the success. This also applies to transparent seals. In natural wood surfaces, fat components of the Window Color can lead to darkening discoloration. They penetrate into the wood by heating. When ironing with an opened blotter, fat residues can be "ironed out" with luck.
Fading and reworking
Surface discoloration, which remains after removing the Window Color, is usually unavoidable. In addition to greasy components of the color fading. Window Color acts as a shield against the natural fading of painted or painted wood surfaces. When the image is removed, one must often expect a clear "imprint".
If the natural wood is a lighter wood, the shading can be worked out by reworking with stain, wax or oil. For lacquered, glazed or painted surfaces, the expense of removing scratches from wood. Grinding and re-sealing are often inevitable.
To remove Window Color, try to physically separate the paint film from the substrate as a whole. Several tools can help you:
- Heating with a hair dryer
- Cooling with a cooling battery or ice bag
- Window cleaning spray
- Hot steam
- Label remover